P R A G U E - C I T Y O F
A H U N D R E D S P I R E S
The cemetery buildings form part of the best preserved complex of
Jewish historical monuments in all of Europe.
Contributing Writer: Lani Jeffrey
Publisher: The Western Jewish Bulletin, Vancouver, British Columbia,
Canada
Date: July 11, 2003
Photo: Old-New Synagogue with the Jewish Town Hall by Lani Jeffrey
The Czech Republic, with the regions of Bohemia and Moravia, located
in the heart of Europe, is not a large country but, however small,
it has a rich and eventful history. The capital of Prague, otherwise
known as the Golden City or the City of a Hundred Spires, is a
magical city whose history dates back more than 1,000 years. It
offers visitors a beguiling mixture of Gothic, Renaissance and
Baroque architecture viewed from 500 towers and steeples. Prague has
an unusual concentration of theatres, museums, galleries and concert
halls. Here, the creation and reception of art have a long-standing
tradition. No wonder this unique gallery of architectural styles in
the streets and parks of Prague has been added to the UNESCO List of
world cultural and natural heritage sites.
Prague is situated in a dramatic setting: a basin traversed by the
meandering river Vltava (or Moldau) and surrounded by seven hills.
In 895 A.D., the first account of Prague as a city “made richer by
commerce than all others”was written in Arabic by a Jew, Ibrahim ibn
Ya’qub from Spain. From the 10th century onwards, Czechs, Germans
and Jews have lived here in symbiosis, influencing one another.
Jewish settlements were scattered in various locations but in the
13th century, they were consolidated within the eventually
independent Jewish town Josefov on the river Vltava”. The Jewish
communities grew according to the whims of rulers, the changing
moods of the Christian populace, and the Jewish ability to adapt.
Their turbulent history is marked by periods of prosperity
alternating with pogroms and disasters. Today, the old Jewish
cemetery, several synagogues, and the Jewish town hall form the best
preserved complex of Jewish historical monuments in all of Europe.
The old Jewish cemetery, the oldest burial ground of its kind in
Europe, was established in the 15th century and used as a burial
site until 1787. Among the 12,000 Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque
tombstones crammed tightly together, is that of a famous scholar and
rabbi, Jehuda Low ben Bezdel, the creator of the legendary Golem.
Mordechai Maisel, an entrepreneur and mayor of the Jewish town, is
buried here along with David Oppenheim, whose collection of Hebrew
manuscripts was donated to Oxford Bodleian Library. With the closing
of the old cemetery, the Jewish community began to use a new
cemetery at Olsany in Prague 2, Vinohrady.
The marvelous Gothic Old-New Synagogue, the oldest in Central
Europe, is still being used for religious services. It was built in
the 13th c. with high gables and richly adorned stonework. Legend
has it that the stones were carried here from the ruined Temple in
Jerusalem. Also, the inside furnishings are of ancient origin. The
synagogue is open daily, except Saturdays and Jewish holidays, from
9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m., and Fridays until 5 p.m. The Jewish Museum
consists of Maisel Synagogue, Klaus Synagogue, Spanish Synagogue,
Pinkas Synagogue, the Ceremonial Hall, and the Old Jewish cemetery.
They are open daily, except Saturdays and Jewish holidays, from 9
a.m. to 6 p.m.
The history of the Jews in Bohemia and Moravia between 10th and 18th
centuries, along with the historical objects, collection of silver,
manuscripts and prints serving ritual and liturgical uses are
exhibited in the Maisel Synagogue (circa 16th century) at Maiselova
Street No.10 in Prague 1. An exhibition of Jewish customs and
traditions is preserved in Klaus Synagogue (circa 17th century) and
the Ceremonial Hall at U Stareho Hrbitova No. 1 and 3 in Prague 1.
Built in the exotic, neo-Moorish style of architecture, the Spanish
Synagogue (circa 19th century) at Vezenska Street No. 1 in Prague 1
was the only relatively modern addition to the Jewish ghetto’s
buildings. Its opulent interior, with extensive gilding against a
background of dark reds, greens, and browns, has been restored and
now houses poignant displays that illustrate the story of Bohemian
and Moravian Jewish communities from the 18th century onwards.
Pinkas Synagogue (circa 16th century) at Siroka Street No. 3 in
Prague 1 was originally intended as a private place of worship for
Aaron Horowitz, but was transformed into a memorial to the 77,297
victims of the Nazi Holocaust. With individual names inscribed on
the walls and with drawings of children from the Terezin
concentration camp, Pinkas Synagogue is one of the most moving
memorials to the fate of European Jewry.
In the early 20th century, the broad Paris Avenue was laid out on
the very fringe of Josefov to redevelop poor housing of Orthodox
Jews. The contrast between the mystery of the Jewish ghetto and the
turn-of-the century stylishness of Paris Avenue with the houses
designed in neo-Renaissance, neo-Baroque, and Art de Nouveau styles
is striking. Franz Kafka, author of The Trial, was born here in
1883. In the Memorial Hall at U Radnice No. 5, the permanent
exhibition commemorates his life and work. The work of this German
Jewish writer is further displayed in the Franz Kafka Gallery at
Staromestske Namesti (Square) No. 22. It is open daily except
Mondays from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 2 to 6p.m.
Under Nazi rule, the Jews suffered the horrors of the Final
Solution. The synagogues lost their congregations, and some of them,
like the 1930 Functionalist Synagogue at Smichov, Prague 5, were
converted into storerooms. The Synagogue at Vinohrady, Prague 2,was
burned down by the Germans, while Josefov became the repository of
looted Jewish property.
After the Velvet Revolution in 1989, which brought democracy to the
former communist Czechoslovakia, Jews deservedly won recognition
from the Czech populace for their diligence, thrift, and
purposefulness. Jews managed to preserve their magnificent monuments
that, today, attract an increasing number of tourists.
For more information about Jewish Prague, visit the Jewish Museum at
U Stare Skoly Street No. 1 in Prague 1, or visit
www.jewishmuseum.cz. For transportation and accommodation
information, contact the Czech Travel Agency, Lydia Schulz, at 4857
Kingsway in Burnaby or call 604-433-5112.
Lani Jeffrey is a Czech Canadian photographer, writer and fine arts
teacher living in Deep Cove.
P R A G U E H O S T I N G
S P R I N G M U S I C F E S T I V A L
Homage to Frank Zappa one of this year’s highlights
CONTRIBUTING WRITER: Lani Jeffrey
PHOTO: Prague swans resting on Moldau River by Lani Jeffrey
Publisher: North Shore News, North Vancouver, British Columbia,
Canada
Date: June 1, 2003
The magical Czech city of Prague is currently hosting its annual
spring music festival.
The Prague Spring International Music Festival runs May 15 to June 3
and has been a permanent showcase for outstanding performing
artists, symphony orchestras and chamber music ensembles from around
the world since 1946. Musicians such as Leonard Bernstein, Sir
Adrian Boult, Charles Munch, Ginette Neveu, and David Oistrach have
won enthusiastic ovations at the festival.
The event commemorates musical anniversaries by presenting works by
important composers, and features Czech as well as world premieres
of compositions by contemporary authors.
Stars that have appeared at the festival include Sir Colin Davis,
Maurice Andre, Lucia Popp, Sviatoslav Richter, Lorin Maazel, Herbert
von Karajan, Anne-Sophie Mutter, Paul Klecki, Mstislav Rostropovich,
and Kim Borg. The festival is one of the few in the world to
encourage young performers.
In 1957 the festival became a founding member of the World
Federation of International Music Competitions with headquarters in
Geneva. Each year, international competition in various instrumental
sections is held.
Combining music and theatre at this year’s event the unique British
vocal and instrumental ensemble Musicians of the Globe will be
performing. Their program includes a representative selection of
instrumental pieces from Shakespearean times and songs by William
Byrd, John Dowland, Giles Farnaby, Robert Jones, and Thomas Morley.
This performance will take place in a replica of the Globe Theatre.
Michael Tilson Thomas, conductor of the San Francisco Symphony, is
also performing at the festival. Thomas will introduce his new cycle
of songs with verses by Emily Dickenson sung by stellar American
soprano Barbara Bonney. A recent winner of the Chopin International
Piano Competition in Warsaw, China’s Li Yun Di from China, will play
Chopin.
A highlight of this year’s festival will be the piano series. Tal &
Groethuysen, the highly regarded piano duo, will perform music by
Carl Czerny, Franz Schubert, Georges Bizet, and Richard Wagner.
Elizabeth Leonskaya, well known to the music world from her
appearances with the Orchestre National de France, will perform
Prokofiev’s Piano Concerto No. 2 in G minor. Emil Leichner with the
Czech Philharmonic conducted by Sir Charles Mackerras will delight
music lovers with Incantation, the concerto No. 4 for piano and
orchestra.
The audience will also become acquainted with the remarkable cycle
of 36 fugues composed by Antonin Rejcha in the 18th century for the
predecessor of the modern piano, the hammerklavier. The music will
be performed by Jaroslav Tuma on a replica of this historical
instrument.
A unique part of the series will be a celebration of Alois Haba’s
oeuvre to mark the anniversary of his death. Tomas Visek will
perform Haba’s compositions for half-tone piano. Other performances
will include the works of classical music for piano interpreted by
Emanuel Ax, Nikolai Demidenko, Ivan Moravec, Grigory Sokolov as well
as other renowned pianists.
Homage to Frank Zappa will be the festival’s first production to
include rock music. Zappa’s symphonic compositions will be performed
by the Agon Orchestra conducted by Petr Kofron. Zappa’s friends and
collaborators, Michal Pavlicek and Michael Kocab, will present a
unique blend of music inspired by Vares and Stravinsky.
For those visiting the city Prague offers many gastronomic delights.
Roasted duck with cabbage and dumplings and Svickova sauce with beef
and dumplings top the list of traditional dishes. With such
substantial food, everyone should try the national drink – beer.
Czech beer is famous thanks to the exceptional hops in northern
Czech Republic. Taverns serve brands such as Budvar, Staropramen,
Popovicky Kozel, and Radegast along with the king of beer Pilsner
Urquell (also available in Canada). A dessert to die for is the
mouthwatering pastry Coffin.
While immersing themselves in the music and fine cuisine of Prague,
visitors can also explore the history of this enigmatic city,
proclaimed a World Heritage City by UNESCO.
One can easily imagine her many layered cultural past by walking
down the narrow, ancient streets. Romanesque churches, Gothic
cathedrals, and Baroque statues greet visitors with their rigid
gestures and petrified smiles.
Every spring Prague comes alive during the music festival. Locals
are reminded of her king, Charles IV, Holy Roman Emperor, who made
Prague the cultural centre of Europe.
If you go:
Getting to Czech Republic: Lufthansa and KLM are recommended.
Accommodation: the five star hotels Inter-Continental, Marriot,
Paris, and Europa are
recommended.
Program of the Prague Spring Festival: visit www.festival.cz.
Ticketpro: 011-42-02-963-29-999 concert prices range from $ 5 to $
100 Cdn.
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